The alarm went off at 5:30am and I made my way down to the street to wait for my bus. Soon I was southbound, leaving the narrow streets of Quito for lush green spaces above the clouds. After an hour or two, we arrived at the Chuquiragua Lodge for breakfast and an introduction to an on-site llama.

I met a Scottish couple at breakfast, and we went out to say hello to the llama. We looked pretty silly because we were a little apprehensive about getting too close. We kept scurrying back whenever she approached us. Eventually, someone working at the lodge came out to show us how to feed the llama, and we slowly gained confidence (though someones our shoes were nibbled instead of the grass). Just as we began to feel safe, the llama charged towards the Scottish guy and delivered a swift kick to his backside. We decided that was enough llama for one day.

After recovering, we hopped on another bus and traveled to Cotopaxi, an active volcano which last let off steam in 2015 (though the last big blast was in the late 19th century). We stopped to acquire some coca tea to help with the altitude (I purchased some extra leaves for backup).

After stocking up, we began our ascent through the extraterrestrial landscape. I don’t know whether it was being completely submerged in fog as far as the eye could see, the strange geology, or the coca tea, but it was a surreal experience.

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Eventually, we reached a lodge partway up the mountain. It would have been ideal to climb all the way to the top (I was itching to continue), but that wasn’t on the group’s itinerary. Nevertheless, I was thankful for the experience we had, and seeking shelter from the precipitation and the cold was quite welcome.

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Inside, I had some traditional Ecuadorian soup called Locro de Papas, which was served with corn kernels and avocado (quite tasty). I also made sure to initial the United States flag, adding my name to the list of those who had made the climb.

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After resting in the lodge, we began our descent through the Marian terrain. The clouds kept shifting, offering us occasional views through the mist.

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After hiking back down for a while, we were given the option to mountain bike down instead of riding in the van. At this point we were all very cold, the wind was picking up, and the sleet was increasing. Naturally I elected the bike.

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The bikes were not the most robust, in contrast to the healthy brown rivers which traversed our trail and threatened to buck us off like a rodeo bull. The guide explained “the brakes don’t work well, but that’s just because of the terrain.” Great news. I have no idea how I didn’t fall off (especially considering I hadn’t been on a bike since 2015, the infamous incident in which we unsuccessfully attempted to teach my friend Trevor how to ride a bike in London). After 30-40 minutes of holding on for dear life, we reached the bottom of the trail (structurally unscathed but quite muddy).

Eventually, we started making it back towards the lodge for our 4:30pm “lunch.” Miraculously, the clouds began to clear, and we were treated to a completely clear view of the volcano, completely with rainbow accompaniment.

I returned to the Earth around 7pm and finally remembered the meanings of the words “dry” and “warm.” Overall a fantastic experience that I won’t soon forget.